This Is What Microneedling Really Does to Your Face
derma roller for lip wrinkles
Microneedling (also known as collagen induction therapy) involves using fine needles to create hundreds of tiny,
invisible puncture wounds in the top layer of skin. It may not sound appealing. But this minimally invasive
treatment—whether it’s done in-office by a trained aesthetician, dermatologist, or plastic surgeon or at home
using a derma roller (a small, handheld paint roller coated in tiny needles)—can be very effective. “The
micro-injuries you create stimulates the body’s natural wound healing processes, resulting in cell turnover and
increased collagen and elastin production, therefore reversing as well as preventing signs of aging,” says Sejal
Shah, MD, a dermatologist in private practice in New York City. (Microneedling works the same way lasers do, only
you’re injuring the skin mechanically instead of using heat or light.)
Microneedling may reduce fine and deep wrinkles
One of the main benefits of microneedling is its ability to stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin, which
is the key to new, youthful-looking skin. Because of its ability to trigger the generation of new skin cells,
dermatologists have found that a few sessions will noticeably reduce fine lines, crow’s feet, and deep wrinkles
on the forehead. “This is one of the reasons I like microneedling—because it’s able to use the body’s own natural
healing mechanisms, so the results are very natural,” Dr. Shah says. “And because there’s minimal downtime with
it, I often recommend it as maintenance for people who are trying to stave off the signs of aging.” To treat
wrinkles, a needle no longer than 1.5 mm should be used. These are the 17 skin-care tips dermatologists follow
themselves.
Microneedling may repair visible scars
In a study on the effects of microneedling published in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, nearly
100 percent of acne-scarred participants reported a marked improvement in the visibility of their scars. With
at-home microneedling, a 1.5-mm handheld roller is long enough to improve the appearance of acne scars. For
severe acne scars, however, you may need longer needles for maximum results. Professional grade microneedling
devices (used in a dermatologist’s or facialist’s office) can be as long as 3 mm, which will treat deep acne
scars that occur beneath the surface of the skin. How effective is microneedling compared to fractional laser
treatments for reducing acne scars? Research in the journal Dermatologic Surgery in 2016 found both treatments to
be comparable and effective but gave credit to microneedling for being better tolerated, with fewer side effects
and less downtime.
Microneedling may reverse sun damage and pigmentation
Collagen is arguably the best way to improve the look of skin, and this goes beyond reducing wrinkles.
Stimulating collagen growth with microneedling can also reverse sun damage and discoloration, including the
hyperpigmentation that comes with melasma. A study in Brazilian Annals of Dermatology showed microneedling to be
a promising treatment for the blotchy, brownish facial pigmentation that comes with this chronic condition. To
improve extra pigmentation from sun-damaged skin, dermaroller needles should range from 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm in
length. These 13 foods are tied directly to younger-looking skin.
Microneedling may help aging skin
In addition to its ability to smooth and correct damaged skin, microneedling can also tighten loose skin in older
men and women. (Remember: The older you are, the less collagen you’re naturally producing.) A study in the
International Journal of Dermatology found that microneedling is a new way to achieve “skin rejuvenation,
tightening, and scar remodeling” and that it offers a “simple and effective treatment for photo-aged skin,”
according to the researchers, with minimal side effects and downtime. Also helpful: avoiding these habits that
are making you age faster.